Fontainebleau – Cul de Chien – Petit Hans Fb5a 25.05.2024
The actual problem is located left of “Dülfer” (blue n° 23) and right of “L’orage” (red no n°). After consulting with our friends you find the descriptions at www.boolder.com and bleau.info.
I’m aware that there might be already a line here, but am surprised how much dirt and lichen had to be removed to climb it. I checked and couldn’t find any old paint and it is not crossing any existing lines.
The neighboring lines “L’orage” and “Dülfer” don’t share any hand holds or foot placements. Standing start, foot on the rock of the bottom, probably easier for very tall people (I’m not), wall climb, top section is dülfer to the left or medium slopers.
I suggest no elimination besides the usual idea of not using aspects of neighbouring problems and skipping the exits before the high point. A sitting start is way beyond my capacity and didn’t try, but the grade would be very different in that style. For those who like elimitations (I don’t), they could try feet directly on the main wall, skipping the rock at the bottom.
The suggested name is “Petit Hans”. Hommage to Hans Dülfer, the famous German climber and a wordplay with the case study lead by the psychologist Freud. The name is not yet taken in Fontainebleau and makes a link to the neighbouring problem “Dülfer”.
For the grading, my proposal is 5a as it is on the same bloc easier than “L’Orage” (5c), more technical than “Bastille” (4c) and comparable to “L’arête principale” (5a) though shorter.
Log your ascent and grading proposition for this problem, and in line with other problems on this bloc and in this sector at www.thecrag.com.
Leave a Reply