Montanejos, Barranco de la Maimona, Sector El Tubo
First ascent solo from below, alpine style, Moritz Regnier, 10.05.2024
Set of friends with a double of the medium and small sizes, set of totem, rocks, slings and belay gear.
Please keep in mind that trad climbs need more attention and experience in route finding and evaluation of risk. This route is a good place for alpine style climbing where you place your own gear though there is some in place. Please remember that it is a recent route (2024) that starts to see some traffic. I’ve been there one year later (2025), and it is in good shape, the rock is still very fresh, so watch your feet.
Please respect the gear in place and complete it if necessary (or tell me). A special “thanks” goes to the unknown person who took care of the slings ends and taped it — that is soooo coool and kind. This is the good vibe of climbing community. Leave a comment if it’s you!
Log your ascent, comments and grading proposals on TheCrag.
Pitch 1
Start at a round shaped slab, reaching out to a steeper slab with a big threaded hourglass. Go straight up, slightly left, the first wire placement. From there up and right. (15m) On the ledge, diagonal right (2-3 steps) to threaded hourglass. Straight up on pockets and holes (thread and sling on bush), in direction of a short dark wall with a bigger bush/little tree on top. Belay with sling on the tree, with maillon. There is a possible alternative belay on three friends 2m below, less comfortable. R1 35m
Pitch 2
From the ledge above the tree in a 45° diagonal direction up and right. A mix of upwards face climb and traversing to the right. Placements on pockets and small cracks.
A double threaded hourglass, sling around a bush/tree (pass below and right up).
Continue in the diagonal direction until you reach a belay made of an hourglass and a tree, tied sling with maillon. R2 35m
Pitch 3
Climb up and right behind the belay tree. Reach a niche that forms a small overhang. From here to alternatives:
Left alternative: straight up, a bit steep, look for a thread and orient yourself to the right, reaching the bottom of a dihedral. Small ledge of vegetation.
Right alternative: Take 2-3 steps right down to reach a hand crack. Watch out for protection for the second without creating too much rope drag for yourself. Consider back-cleaning the bottom of the crack. At the top reach to the left for the same small ledge of vegetation at the bottom of the dihedral. Don’t go right into the rim.
Climb up the dehidral, traverse 2-3 steps right (threaded hourglass) and continue up a small crack / diagonal dehidral (piton).
Belay at the bottom of a big tree. Sling with maillon. R3 35m
Pitch 4
Facing the wall, look for a thread (approximately 5m). Face climb straight up towards piton.
This piton is followed by a thread tied as a tie. (Crux, seen from above)
Move up the slab (piton) and straight up to the end. Watch out for loose rocks, sling around bush and a thread. Belay on pine tree, sling with maillon. R4 35m
Exit to footpath close by +15m.
Leave a Reply